Turkey Reflections

Though my blog has not been busy, I have been busy reflecting on Turkey and all of the experiences there!  In 2011, I will be speaking at a variety of locations about my experience, and giving people the opportunity to help support the Istanbul Interparish Migrant Program (IIMP) if they are so moved!  More details on that soon.  For now, a few more pictures for your enjoyment.

Playing the harp at St. Johns

Syriac Bible at Mor Gabriel

Prayer Wall at Mary's House

Not every headscarf is created equal

about to go in Blue Mosque, Istanbul

Hello readers!  I am in Greece now, working on my dissertation.  But all the while I am still reflecting on Turkey and my experience there. 

Just to give you a quick overview about some of the people we met (whose pictures unfortunately I mostly cannot post to protect their privacy), here is a short synopsis.  Muslim women scholars, high school students, women who had escaped domestic violence, Syrian priests/monks/nuns, women artisans of scarves, women artisans of tiles, and refugees and asylum seekers in Turkey.  (See previous post).  For now I'll tell you about the first of the women we met---women scholars of religion, right up my alley.

Blue Mosque, Istanbul.  Impressive, right?

Muslim women scholars: We met with three muslim women scholars of religious studies.  One is a professor and two are PhD students (I resonated with them, let me tell you).  Reading the brochure they have on the program, it was interesting: if I had inserted "Bible" wherever they said "Quran", the brochure could have been for any graduate program in the United States---putting the text in its historical context, assessing its place in culture, learning historical-critical methodology, etc. 

The most memorable part of the conversation for me was about headscarves.  Go figure!  I learned a very important thing: Not every headscarf is created alike.  Muslim women wear (or don't wear them) for lots of different reasons.  For women women from traditional households, a headscarf enable them to go anywhere and do anything with honor.  For instance, they can go to work, wear western clothing, do errands and get an education if they only put a scarf on over their heads.  Why not?  So they do.  Other women are more secularized and just don't want to do it, so they don't.  Often I would see a woman in a headscarf with stylish jeans and peeptoe leopard print shoes.  And the best part---with a headscarf, no one ever has a bad hair day.

Blue Mosque, Istanbul, through an archway.  I tried to be artistic.

Another interesting component of the headscarf issue that the women explained is this: the way they wear headscarves is not traditional.  The way one ties a headscarf, the pattern that is chosen, and how much of the face and hair shows is all important.  These women are wearing headscarves in new ways---which is an act of defiance against "tradition".  It is a new trend among very conservative Muslims to not let any of the hair show, and to cover all around the face so that really only the forehead, eyes, nose, mouth and chin show---like a wimple.  These women resist such a movement, and wear their scarves in a different way.  Very interesting!  I keep trying to think of a Christian parallel, but none comes to mind.  We do have people that wear special garments, but it is not required of every Christian, but only those who have taken special vows.  Certainly within those groups there are many levels of expectations, resistance, and accommodation, but it is not the same as every woman in a religion facing such a choice.  Your thoughts?

Blue Mosque interior, featuring our awesome guide, Inci

One other interesting note: Because Turkey is a secularized government, it has been illegal for the past 60+ years for women in public service jobs (university, government, etc.) to wear headscarves at work.  This law recently changed, but I'm not clear to what degree. It certainly opened my eyes up to the variety of ways countries who are majority Muslim do business very differently---just like the way the United States, Germany and Italy all have very different governments and ways of handling cultural issues.

The three women we met were quite hospitable, friendly, and well-spoken.  I could not have asked for a better introduction into the world of Turkish women.


* Little side note--here is a picture of me about to go into the Blue Mosque, and some of the Blue Mosque itself.  It was an outstanding place of worship.  You will notice that Inci (pronounded "In-jee"), our fabulous Turkish tour guide, is NOT wearing a headscarf.  They're pretty lax about it in the Blue Mosque, and she doesn't roll with the headscarf idea.  But I did, partly because when in Rome...

Some Pictures

A few pics of Turkey!

Modern Iznik, ancient Nicea.  Pretty!

See how even the subway is beautiful?  Turkish culture pays attention to the small stuff!

Ancient Sumerian deity in the Istanbul Archaeological Museum

The view from my Istanbul hostel of the Sea of Marmara

Hagia Sophia, Istanbul

Update from Istanbul

Blue Mosque, Istanbul

Greetings everyone! It has been a while since I have posted an update about the trip.  While there has been plentiful internet, there has not been plentiful computers for me to spend time to get a post done.  So I am doing a quick one here.

In short: The trip has been amazing.  We've spent time in Istanbul, Izmir, Ephesus, Gaziantep, Mardin, and Midyat---that houses the world's oldest monastery.  The other women left on Monday, and I have stayed on my own in Istanbul.

Rather than try to write out the entire trip, I am going to tell you just a little bit about my day today to give you a flavor of Turkish life and hospitality.

Today: I woke up at the hostel and came upstairs to a beautiful Turkish breakfast.  Bread, jam, butter, chocolate spread (I'm not kidding), olives, cucumbers, tomatoes, cheese croissants, soft cheeses and wonderful Turkish tea.  I was more than satisfied.

On my way to the tram stop, I was looking confusedly at my map.  A nice man stopped and asked if he could help me find something, and gave me good directions to the ticket booth office.  Hooray!  Then we chatted--his English was excellent but he said he'd like to improve it and visit the United States in a year or two.  He asked how I like Turkey (love it) and where I've been.  After a few minutes, he said that if I was not in a hurry, maybe I could join him in his family Turkish rug business around the corner.  Hospitality here is legendary---this was a chance for him to get to practice his English and demonstrate the Turkish warmth.  I enjoyed some wonderful tea amidst some beautiful carpets.  I spoke with he and his cousin, and both were very hospitable.  A curious feature of some of the people here is very blunt questions about family.  For instance "Are you married?  children?"  me: "No".  Pause.  "Why not?"  But when in Rome....

Then I departed to go to IIMP (the official name escapes me) center.  This organization, in collaboration with Union Church, works with migrants, refugees and those seeking asylum in Turkey.  This issue, as I learned, is huge and difficult, and like in America, involves a whole lot of red tape.  The bottom line: It is very easy to get into Turkey but difficult and costly to leave.  Many come here to escape political or volatile situations, and find themselves here without documentation, which many desperately want.  Turkey is working on this issue, but slowly.  The IIMP helps people learn English who wish to, provides some medical support (since migrants are not eligible for medical care), and helps them navigate the system to become documented if possible (for many it is not possible).  There are literally many people here without documentation, who do not legally exist.  I know what many of you must be comparing the situation to the USA---I did.  But it really is apples and oranges, because many of these people enter Turkey legally with visas, but are unable to pay the exit fees to leave, plus a whole bunch of other complications.  They also cannot work, and many become exploited by business owners who never pay them what is promised, for which there is zero recourse.  Also, unregistered kids cannot attend school---so IIMP steps in to help.

Woman to Woman visited IIMP a week ago, and since I stayed on, I decided to go back.  I assisted sorting clothes for the clothing pantry (separating men's, women's, kids, winter, summer, etc.).  Then I sat in on the clients appointments to see what the issues are that they face.  Talk about a friendly, warm group of people, even when they are facing poverty and incredible odds.  Many people walked to Turkey from as far as Syria or even Burma.  And all the way to Istanbul---very far indeed.  There was an incredible mother daughter duo who was there today who were Middle Eastern Christians.  I do not want to tell too much of their story here, because it may not be safe for them to have the details of their lives plastered all over the internet.  But the highlight of my day was helping them fill out forms to be granted official asylum in another country.  The form was in English; the daughter spoke fluent Turkish and her home language; the mother spoke only the home language; and the Austrian woman in the room spoke Turkish and English---so we managed.

When I got back to the hostel, I was doing some computer work, and seriously, the hostel manager would not let me leave the room until I had some tea with everyone.  So, more hospitality at work in this wonderful country.

I'm including a photo or two for you, and will write some more as soon as I can!

Leaving on a Jet Plane

Wow, it's here!!!  I leave tomorrow to go to NYC for a one night orientation....then on to Turkey!

The last week has been asbolutely whirlwind, and it in a good way.  I arrived to Shreveport, my home town, on Oct 1.  On Oct 2 there was a bachelorette party for my friend Angie, and yesterday was her wedding to the fabulous Bill.  Joe came into town, met the fam, and was my dashing date to the wedding.  In between was a lot of family and friends time, some dissertation time, and some rest time.  A huge, huge thanks to my parents, Grandma, and Brandy for all the running around and feeding me they did.

Mission Project: A huge, huge help in this week was the donation offered by Lakeview UMC.  I played my new lap harp in the church service, and talked a little about the upcoming trip to Turkey, and the church offering was $233 to help out with the mission project of the trip--buying vitamins.  Today I bought a whole mess of vitamins to take to Turkey, which will be donated to (I think) the migrant worker community, especially the babies and toddlers of migrant workers.  Isn't it amazing--a church in Louisiana is helping out with the project?  Let the ecumenism begin!  With that, I am off, and hopefully pictures and updates soon to follow.

Two Weeks

What a whirlwind few weeks!  September has been a very full month, and I have not even left the ground yet.  Right now I am surrounded by suitcases, a harp, boxes, brooms and random papers.  All my books are returned to the library, and now I am readying the apartment for the subletter who will stay here while I'm gone. 

I'm so grateful to family, friends, and even some acquaintances who have contributed financially, and those who have contributed with a lot of moral support, to this trip.  When I think of how many people have assisted with the preparations for Turkey, it is astounding--financial contributions, airport rides, borrowing a camera and a backpack, parents as dogsitters and lots of eager questions and support from so many people. 

I leave on in two to go to Shreveport for a family visit and a dear friend's wedding, with a stopover to visit JDK and WS on the way.  Then on October 12 I head to NYC for a night of orientation, and then on October 13 we head off to Turkey!  At the end of October I'll be heading to Greece to study in Corinth for one week, and then to Ireland.

So, now back to packing and cleaning, and one final day in Berkeley before the travels commence!

CCNC-N Women

A very quick update---the cost of the trip has been covered!  The women of the CCNC-N region contributed generously at the Fall Retreat (at Mission Springs).  They gave a total of $331---gratitude does not even begin to cover it.  I will recognize individuals in the next week or so, when I can get home and work through the individual contributions. 

The most fun part of the little booth I put up for contributions was a raffle for harp and violin services.  Congratulations Diane Terrell --- a harpist and violinist is coming to Chico soon!

Lots of Gratitude from Berkeley

I am so blessed with many who are offering gifts and work my way to assist with my trip to Turkey.  In the past few weeks I have been teaching here and there, taking odd jobs, and being surprised with gifts from many wonderful people.  The short list:

• Fairfax Community UCC: I taught a wonderful group of adult learners, and was so impressed with their insights, questions and conversation around the creation of the New Testament.  
• Queen Scanner: I had a two day job scanning about 15 boxes worth of files.
• On this Sunday, I will play harp and violin combo for the third time at the contemplative service at FCC Oakland, a delightful, historical church just north of downtown Oakland.

In the meantime, gifts from people like Brandy, Ann, and Juliet have been a delightful surprise, and I am so touched by everyone's generosity.  At the least---a postcard is coming your way!  At the most---my prayerful thanks.

A Backpack for the Trip

Sometimes good things just happen to a traveler wanting to be practical, and let's face it, cheap when possible.  I am a student, after all.  On Thursday, I took advantage of a lovely evening of movies, munchies, drinks and good company with my friends Beth and Stephanie, and I met new friends Katie and Courtney.  I was telling people about the upcoming Turkey trip and sharing my excitement, and learning some travel tips.  At some point in the evening, I asked out of the blue if anyone had a big campers backpack, which I think will be ideal for traveling to three countries and hauling my own stuff.  Courtney responded "Yes--do you want to borrow it?"  Keep in mind--I have only met Courtney that night for the first time!  She called her husband and got him to bring both backpacks over to the party so that I could choose one.  I couldn't ask for a better deal than that!  Lots of generosity and thanksgiving going down in Berkeley due to one nice traveler loaning out this fabulous-looking backpack.  Doesn't it look like it will be perfect?  It's even got straps on the outside so that I can tote my harp around on it, too.  Thanks Courtney!

Big Surprises

I just found out my new balance, and I've been given an award for the "most unique balance" of anyone in the trip!  I was so surprised to see the names of people who had given, and am incredibly grateful.  Norma, Sara, Lou Ann, Sheryl---a big thank you.  You will be the recipient of a fancy postcard and maybe some holy water from Mary's house.

Long time, No Write! Making Music in Oakland

Whoa, long time, no blog update!  I am correcting that now.

I was privileged to play my violin at Mills Grove Christian Church, and it was my first time to worship with them though I've been at retreats and in classes with many of the women for several years.  This is sweet, delightful and energetic congregation---I thoroughly enjoyed my worship there.  To the right, you will see the wonderful Rochon, who is a supreme pianist and musician.  She can sightread anything and add dimensions to accompaniment that I would never imagine.  What a wonderful gift to play together!  So wonderful in fact......that she helped me fix a big, big mistake---the kind I haven't made since I was about 11 years old.  Right in the middle of "Jesu, Jesu, Joy of Man's Desiring" (which I've played about 1,000 times), I looked up at the congregation, looked back at my  music, and could not find where I was.  I mean, I was LOST.  Then Rochon was lost.  Then we were both lost.  So, I did something that I have never done before.  I stopped playing, laughed and just said "This is TERRIBLE!  I've lost my place!"  Rochon and I picked up and kept going til the end.  The most wonderful part, in my experience, was the warmth and joy of the congregation---everyone just rolled with the punches.  It turned out that a few of the people really loved the piece (even with the error), so everything ended well and on a high note.  The amazing Rev. Clarence Thomas even managed to incorporate the "wrong note" images into his sermon, so we all made lemonade out of lemons.

I can't wait to give my "thank you" to the congregation for their donation after I get back from Turkey.  It will be great to worship with y'all again!

Short Update

Last night I went to go see Carrie Newcomer at Sierra Christian Church in Loomis, CA.  She was incredible, and the evening of music was right up my ally.  This does not directly have to do with the trip to Turkey, but at the concert there were many people who know about my upcoming trip who asked about it!  The good news is that the balance keeps getting smaller: I owe about $1200, a long ways from the original $3800. A few people seemed eager to chip in (I'm looking at you, LAH), and I continue to be grateful.

What a great night: a mini-road trip with friends, singing in the car, Carrie Newcomer, the hospitality of Sierra Christian Church, and some more promises for Turkey!

Stories about Istanbul

Hello Gentle Readers,

In between my dissertation and other summer fun, I am still preparing for the big trip to Turkey.  I get more excited every day!  Recently I picked up a small book called Istanbul: Tales of the City, with stories by Herman Melville, Simone de Beauvoir, Gore Vidal, and others.  I've read the first one by Bahloal Dana called "The Rose of Istamboul".  The story dates to the Ottoman empire, and is a classic of Turkish literature, though we know very little about Bahloal Dana.  Despite my efforts, I cannot find any wikipedia or other links to the story--and isn't funny how quickly that has become an expectation of mine!

The story is just a few pages long, and is about a young man who has ended up with three wives.  He likes them well enough, but would rather be a mystic and spend his time in holy trances.  He thinks bitterly that women were impulsive, and sought to trap men in their snares...until he meets a beautiful woman who refuses to give him her name.  Indeed, she startles him by appearing while he is in prayer and tells him softly that she is the answer to his prayer.  Her beauty seems immortal to him, and she will not give him her name even when he asks for it, but tells him "Allah in His great mercy has understood that for thee and such as thee no moral woman can suffice.  But as it is necessary that the soul of woman should unite with that even of the most wise and pious of mankind, such as I have been raised up by Allah to attend them in order that the miracle of nature's unity may be made complete".  They continue their conversation and he wonders if she might have been sent by the evil one.  She laughs and reminds him that no one from evil may utter the name Allah.  Finally she tells him that she is mystery, as he has guessed, and also something more, "for which you would gladly give your life, yet which daily you tread under your feet."  He guesses--Love?  Yes, she is love, the kind that surpasses that of a mother for the son or a sailor for the sea.  She leaves before daybreak, telling him that she will come every nightfall in the hopes of meeting him again.

The next night he demands to know her name, and she tells him that he may call her the Rose of Istamboul.  He wants her to become his bride, and then he may know her true name.  She reminds him that they are already bride and groom in eternity...and one guesses she does not want to formalize the arrangement.  He tries to follow her by day to see where she dwells, but she vanishes before him.  His wives at home are becoming suspicious of his nightly wanderings. Weeks pass and he does not see his beloved, who was the answer to his unspoken prayer.  He finally comes to realize that she is "all that woman in her essential native vigour and power and divine sweetness brings to man in one body--the rapturous spirit of that earth of which he is himself a part, the less vivid, the less daedal part, the nymphic fire that from the oak conceives the dryad, that from the stream brings forth the naiad, that pagan fury which not only receives the life of which man is the vessel, but which has power, like its mother the earth, to bring it to harvest and fruition".  After his realization, the next time he enters the mosque, he finds her.  She declares in his embrace that she is that which comes to all poets--the Rose of Istamboul.

There is something about this story...it is distinctly non-Western.  The story is not shy about the connection between ecstasy, desire, the body, prayer and the Divine.  At the same time, it exhibits dualism about women---they are either nags (the wives), or holy spectacles (the Rose).  Yet at the same time---I was enchanted.

Does anyone else have classic Turkish literature that I should read?  I'm ready to be enchanted some more!

What I will be doing in Turkey

Another week, another posting!  I finally have some updated information about what I'll be doing in Turkey.  If you are new to this blog, you might want to read the initial posting that explains about the trip and why I'm going.

While we don't know our final itinerary yet, it looks like we'll be spending the majority of our time in Western Turkey, in and around Istanbul.  The map over to your right is helpful for getting a sense at how BIG Turkey is---we'll only be in a small portion of the country.  Of particular interest to me is a visit (hopefully!) to the ancient ruins of Ephesus, an important economic and cultic center in Asia Minor in the ancient world---and a place where St. Paul visited.  Istanbul is in the top left, and Ephesus is located in red near the coast of the Aegean Sea.  I am also really interested in visiting the region of Cappadocia, home of the 4th century Cappadocian Fathers---very important to the history of early Christianity (though I admit, I don't know much about them!)

As far as what we'll be doing, for sure on the schedule are visits to locations that specialize in women's and children's interests.  I am realizing how little I know about these issues in the United States, much less about them in a country like Turkey.  I am looking forward to seeing how another culture, and one whose main religious adherents are Muslim, interpret, deal with, and solve problems, including poverty, among women and children.

I am still happily accepting donations to help offset the cost of this trip!  This summer I am dedicated to writing my dissertation, so work has been on the back burner a little bit.  (At least, paid work.  Writing a dissertation, it turns out, is a LOT of work!)  If you have been thinking about contributing, now is a great time!  Any and all amounts are appreciated---even small amounts like $5 add up!  Any contributions may be sent to:

Office of Disciples Women
130 E Washington St.
Indianapolis, IN 46204
Attn: Beverly Ledwon

Memo: for Katy Valentine WWW Trip
It is essential that my name be added to the memo line!

A big THANK YOU to all those who have contributed.  I appreciate it so much, and can't wait to communicate with you about the trip.

Last question: for those of you who have done long, international trip living out of a suitcase, what was the most valuable thing that you packed?

Woo-Hoo!

Just $1000 left to raise for the trip!  I'm excited and humbled that so many people have contributed to the trip.  Thanks so much to everyone so far!

Istanbul, not Constantinople

This is just for a little fun.  Who knew there was a version before They Might Be Giants?

Harp playing for Turkey

Today I got to play the harp at First Christian Church of Oakland!  The church is contributing some to my Turkey trip, and it was wonderful to play at their contemplative service today.  I provided some light instrumentation for the popular refrains "Sanctuary" and "Fill my heart, O God", and then provided some prayerful music in Turkish style before silent meditation.  My first public harp appearance---and I couldn't ask for a nicer community to get it started. 

Because it was a last minute arrangement, we didn't have time for pictures or videos---but hopefully soon!  In a week, I am playing at an event for my own spiritual community, the Table, and in a month or so, I'll be joining the worship service of Mills Grove Christian Church.  Can't wait!

Welcome CCNC-N People!

Many of you may directed here from the Regional newsletter of the CCNC-N church---welcome!  I am so excited to be the representative from our region on the upcoming Woman-to-Woman trip.  Please let me know your thoughts, prayers, wishes, and other "stuff" that I can take with me to Turkey.  I am in the midst of reading and researching right now about the upcoming trip.  Click here to read the original posting about the details of the trip.

Ways you can help!

• Sign up on the right to become a "follower" of the blog
• Leave a comment on this posting (see the comments section below the posting entry), and give a big "hello" to everyone reading it!
• Read below for the two other blog entries, and see the column to the right for additional information

Thanks for stopping by!

Katy

Some Books

I'm getting started on my suggested reading list!  It includes 3 books by the people w ho run the program:

• “Visible Islam in Turkey” by Kenneth Frank and Adil Ozdemir 
• “Biblical Sites in Turkey” by Anna Edmonds (former missionary) 
• “Turkey Decoded” by Ann Dismorr (http://tinyurl.com/lqs8k6)  Recent Swedish ambassador to Turkey.

I'm also hitting the local bookstores for travel guides!  Any suggestions?Soon I'll post some of my harp adventures in Turkish music.  I am jazzed!

Katy is going to Turkey

Greetings!  You have arrived at this blog either because you know me, or because someone forwarded you my information---welcome!  This is a blog dedicated to my upcoming trip to Turkey, in October 2010.  I am grateful to have the opportunity to go on this trip, sponsored by the Office of Disciples Women in which a group of about twenty women will journey to Turkey together. While there we will travel, listen to women, learn about the lives of women in Turkey and forge lasting connections between our churches and theirs. (Also when I have an itinerary I will share it with you).

The trip is part of a program sponsored by the Christian Church (Disciples of Christ) called Woman-to-Woman Worldwide (WWW), an organization that "responds to the call for church women to experience solidarity with one another, to affirm the unity of the church in Jesus Christ and to join the common struggle for justice and peace in the world today. These international, ecumenical and personal experiences encourage faithful women to see the world through new eyes and bring that perspective back to their congregation and community" (discipleswomen.org).  Recent trips have been made to Haiti, Israel/Palestine, Bosnia/Croatia, Venezuela/Colombia, and Korea.

Why am I going to Turkey on this trip?  For those of you who are part of the Christian tradition, it may resonate with you to know that I felt a "call" to this particular trip.  For those of you from other traditions, it may resonate to hear that in previous years when I heard the destinations of this program (all wonderful places), I thought "Oh, I bet they'll have a great time.  Can't wait to hear about it"! but when I heard that this year's trip was to Turkey, I thought "Oh!  THAT one is for me!"---and I am still waiting for precisely why this is the case to unfold!  For now, I will only say that the Divine Mystery is tugging at me to go on this trip, and I am thrilled to be part of the group.

While there we will meet with women, talk to them, form relationships, be advocates for one another, promote the biblical ethics of peace and justice, and be responsible for communicating this to our communities back in the United States.   Soon I'll be having some "guest bloggers" tell us what they did on their trips!

A little bonus for me is that my dissertation is on stuff that happened in this part of the world 2,000 years ago.  So, I'll be staying on and doing some research in and about Turkey and Greece---more details to come.

In upcoming posts, I will start reading and posting information about our destination, the people we may encounter, and other interesting details and pictures of the country.  Here is a stunning picture of the Hagia Sophia (Holy Wisdom) church, originally a Christian church which was later converted to a mosque, and now serves as a museum---and undoubtedly a jewel of Istanbul, our arrival and departure city.  Please make posts below and tell me your thoughts about this upcoming trip.  I'm getting my camera ready!