Not every headscarf is created equal

about to go in Blue Mosque, Istanbul

Hello readers!  I am in Greece now, working on my dissertation.  But all the while I am still reflecting on Turkey and my experience there. 

Just to give you a quick overview about some of the people we met (whose pictures unfortunately I mostly cannot post to protect their privacy), here is a short synopsis.  Muslim women scholars, high school students, women who had escaped domestic violence, Syrian priests/monks/nuns, women artisans of scarves, women artisans of tiles, and refugees and asylum seekers in Turkey.  (See previous post).  For now I'll tell you about the first of the women we met---women scholars of religion, right up my alley.

Blue Mosque, Istanbul.  Impressive, right?

Muslim women scholars: We met with three muslim women scholars of religious studies.  One is a professor and two are PhD students (I resonated with them, let me tell you).  Reading the brochure they have on the program, it was interesting: if I had inserted "Bible" wherever they said "Quran", the brochure could have been for any graduate program in the United States---putting the text in its historical context, assessing its place in culture, learning historical-critical methodology, etc. 

The most memorable part of the conversation for me was about headscarves.  Go figure!  I learned a very important thing: Not every headscarf is created alike.  Muslim women wear (or don't wear them) for lots of different reasons.  For women women from traditional households, a headscarf enable them to go anywhere and do anything with honor.  For instance, they can go to work, wear western clothing, do errands and get an education if they only put a scarf on over their heads.  Why not?  So they do.  Other women are more secularized and just don't want to do it, so they don't.  Often I would see a woman in a headscarf with stylish jeans and peeptoe leopard print shoes.  And the best part---with a headscarf, no one ever has a bad hair day.

Blue Mosque, Istanbul, through an archway.  I tried to be artistic.

Another interesting component of the headscarf issue that the women explained is this: the way they wear headscarves is not traditional.  The way one ties a headscarf, the pattern that is chosen, and how much of the face and hair shows is all important.  These women are wearing headscarves in new ways---which is an act of defiance against "tradition".  It is a new trend among very conservative Muslims to not let any of the hair show, and to cover all around the face so that really only the forehead, eyes, nose, mouth and chin show---like a wimple.  These women resist such a movement, and wear their scarves in a different way.  Very interesting!  I keep trying to think of a Christian parallel, but none comes to mind.  We do have people that wear special garments, but it is not required of every Christian, but only those who have taken special vows.  Certainly within those groups there are many levels of expectations, resistance, and accommodation, but it is not the same as every woman in a religion facing such a choice.  Your thoughts?

Blue Mosque interior, featuring our awesome guide, Inci

One other interesting note: Because Turkey is a secularized government, it has been illegal for the past 60+ years for women in public service jobs (university, government, etc.) to wear headscarves at work.  This law recently changed, but I'm not clear to what degree. It certainly opened my eyes up to the variety of ways countries who are majority Muslim do business very differently---just like the way the United States, Germany and Italy all have very different governments and ways of handling cultural issues.

The three women we met were quite hospitable, friendly, and well-spoken.  I could not have asked for a better introduction into the world of Turkish women.


* Little side note--here is a picture of me about to go into the Blue Mosque, and some of the Blue Mosque itself.  It was an outstanding place of worship.  You will notice that Inci (pronounded "In-jee"), our fabulous Turkish tour guide, is NOT wearing a headscarf.  They're pretty lax about it in the Blue Mosque, and she doesn't roll with the headscarf idea.  But I did, partly because when in Rome...

Some Pictures

A few pics of Turkey!

Modern Iznik, ancient Nicea.  Pretty!

See how even the subway is beautiful?  Turkish culture pays attention to the small stuff!

Ancient Sumerian deity in the Istanbul Archaeological Museum

The view from my Istanbul hostel of the Sea of Marmara

Hagia Sophia, Istanbul

Update from Istanbul

Blue Mosque, Istanbul

Greetings everyone! It has been a while since I have posted an update about the trip.  While there has been plentiful internet, there has not been plentiful computers for me to spend time to get a post done.  So I am doing a quick one here.

In short: The trip has been amazing.  We've spent time in Istanbul, Izmir, Ephesus, Gaziantep, Mardin, and Midyat---that houses the world's oldest monastery.  The other women left on Monday, and I have stayed on my own in Istanbul.

Rather than try to write out the entire trip, I am going to tell you just a little bit about my day today to give you a flavor of Turkish life and hospitality.

Today: I woke up at the hostel and came upstairs to a beautiful Turkish breakfast.  Bread, jam, butter, chocolate spread (I'm not kidding), olives, cucumbers, tomatoes, cheese croissants, soft cheeses and wonderful Turkish tea.  I was more than satisfied.

On my way to the tram stop, I was looking confusedly at my map.  A nice man stopped and asked if he could help me find something, and gave me good directions to the ticket booth office.  Hooray!  Then we chatted--his English was excellent but he said he'd like to improve it and visit the United States in a year or two.  He asked how I like Turkey (love it) and where I've been.  After a few minutes, he said that if I was not in a hurry, maybe I could join him in his family Turkish rug business around the corner.  Hospitality here is legendary---this was a chance for him to get to practice his English and demonstrate the Turkish warmth.  I enjoyed some wonderful tea amidst some beautiful carpets.  I spoke with he and his cousin, and both were very hospitable.  A curious feature of some of the people here is very blunt questions about family.  For instance "Are you married?  children?"  me: "No".  Pause.  "Why not?"  But when in Rome....

Then I departed to go to IIMP (the official name escapes me) center.  This organization, in collaboration with Union Church, works with migrants, refugees and those seeking asylum in Turkey.  This issue, as I learned, is huge and difficult, and like in America, involves a whole lot of red tape.  The bottom line: It is very easy to get into Turkey but difficult and costly to leave.  Many come here to escape political or volatile situations, and find themselves here without documentation, which many desperately want.  Turkey is working on this issue, but slowly.  The IIMP helps people learn English who wish to, provides some medical support (since migrants are not eligible for medical care), and helps them navigate the system to become documented if possible (for many it is not possible).  There are literally many people here without documentation, who do not legally exist.  I know what many of you must be comparing the situation to the USA---I did.  But it really is apples and oranges, because many of these people enter Turkey legally with visas, but are unable to pay the exit fees to leave, plus a whole bunch of other complications.  They also cannot work, and many become exploited by business owners who never pay them what is promised, for which there is zero recourse.  Also, unregistered kids cannot attend school---so IIMP steps in to help.

Woman to Woman visited IIMP a week ago, and since I stayed on, I decided to go back.  I assisted sorting clothes for the clothing pantry (separating men's, women's, kids, winter, summer, etc.).  Then I sat in on the clients appointments to see what the issues are that they face.  Talk about a friendly, warm group of people, even when they are facing poverty and incredible odds.  Many people walked to Turkey from as far as Syria or even Burma.  And all the way to Istanbul---very far indeed.  There was an incredible mother daughter duo who was there today who were Middle Eastern Christians.  I do not want to tell too much of their story here, because it may not be safe for them to have the details of their lives plastered all over the internet.  But the highlight of my day was helping them fill out forms to be granted official asylum in another country.  The form was in English; the daughter spoke fluent Turkish and her home language; the mother spoke only the home language; and the Austrian woman in the room spoke Turkish and English---so we managed.

When I got back to the hostel, I was doing some computer work, and seriously, the hostel manager would not let me leave the room until I had some tea with everyone.  So, more hospitality at work in this wonderful country.

I'm including a photo or two for you, and will write some more as soon as I can!

Leaving on a Jet Plane

Wow, it's here!!!  I leave tomorrow to go to NYC for a one night orientation....then on to Turkey!

The last week has been asbolutely whirlwind, and it in a good way.  I arrived to Shreveport, my home town, on Oct 1.  On Oct 2 there was a bachelorette party for my friend Angie, and yesterday was her wedding to the fabulous Bill.  Joe came into town, met the fam, and was my dashing date to the wedding.  In between was a lot of family and friends time, some dissertation time, and some rest time.  A huge, huge thanks to my parents, Grandma, and Brandy for all the running around and feeding me they did.

Mission Project: A huge, huge help in this week was the donation offered by Lakeview UMC.  I played my new lap harp in the church service, and talked a little about the upcoming trip to Turkey, and the church offering was $233 to help out with the mission project of the trip--buying vitamins.  Today I bought a whole mess of vitamins to take to Turkey, which will be donated to (I think) the migrant worker community, especially the babies and toddlers of migrant workers.  Isn't it amazing--a church in Louisiana is helping out with the project?  Let the ecumenism begin!  With that, I am off, and hopefully pictures and updates soon to follow.

Two Weeks

What a whirlwind few weeks!  September has been a very full month, and I have not even left the ground yet.  Right now I am surrounded by suitcases, a harp, boxes, brooms and random papers.  All my books are returned to the library, and now I am readying the apartment for the subletter who will stay here while I'm gone. 

I'm so grateful to family, friends, and even some acquaintances who have contributed financially, and those who have contributed with a lot of moral support, to this trip.  When I think of how many people have assisted with the preparations for Turkey, it is astounding--financial contributions, airport rides, borrowing a camera and a backpack, parents as dogsitters and lots of eager questions and support from so many people. 

I leave on in two to go to Shreveport for a family visit and a dear friend's wedding, with a stopover to visit JDK and WS on the way.  Then on October 12 I head to NYC for a night of orientation, and then on October 13 we head off to Turkey!  At the end of October I'll be heading to Greece to study in Corinth for one week, and then to Ireland.

So, now back to packing and cleaning, and one final day in Berkeley before the travels commence!

CCNC-N Women

A very quick update---the cost of the trip has been covered!  The women of the CCNC-N region contributed generously at the Fall Retreat (at Mission Springs).  They gave a total of $331---gratitude does not even begin to cover it.  I will recognize individuals in the next week or so, when I can get home and work through the individual contributions. 

The most fun part of the little booth I put up for contributions was a raffle for harp and violin services.  Congratulations Diane Terrell --- a harpist and violinist is coming to Chico soon!

Lots of Gratitude from Berkeley

I am so blessed with many who are offering gifts and work my way to assist with my trip to Turkey.  In the past few weeks I have been teaching here and there, taking odd jobs, and being surprised with gifts from many wonderful people.  The short list:

• Fairfax Community UCC: I taught a wonderful group of adult learners, and was so impressed with their insights, questions and conversation around the creation of the New Testament.  
• Queen Scanner: I had a two day job scanning about 15 boxes worth of files.
• On this Sunday, I will play harp and violin combo for the third time at the contemplative service at FCC Oakland, a delightful, historical church just north of downtown Oakland.

In the meantime, gifts from people like Brandy, Ann, and Juliet have been a delightful surprise, and I am so touched by everyone's generosity.  At the least---a postcard is coming your way!  At the most---my prayerful thanks.